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At the risk of stating the obvious, Australia is a rather large
country in the southern hemisphere, bounded by the Indian and
Pacific Oceans. If you overlay a map of Europe on Australia you’ll
find they are about the same size, and so you need to apply this
scaling when considering wine-growing areas. Australia is not one
big, homogeneous vineyard producing big, homogenous wines, but has
many different wine-growing regions, each with its own topography
and climate. Australia’s southern location means that the temperature increases
as you go north. It is generally quite a hot place, the heat being
moderated by the presence of the oceans, prevailing winds, and
topography (especially altitude). Whereas in Europe, wines are
generally produced in the warmer areas of a temperate continent, in
Australia, grapes thrive in the temperate areas of a hot continent.
That’s where most of the 20 Million population are as well.
A little history of questionable accuracy
Early colonists were producing wine from imported European vines in
the late 18th century, although they weren’t particularly good at
it. Over the course of the next
century, Australian wine production
improved considerably, greatly assisted by an influx of Lutheran
dissidents from Germany, who both added Riesling vines and, more
importantly, were thrifty, hard-working and frugal farmers. Many of
the most well-known names in the Australian wine industry (e.g. Henschke, Glaetzer, Lehmann, Max Schubert, father of Penfold’s
Grange), in particular in the Barossa area, originate from this
influx.
A less-convivial import for Australian wine production was the
Phylloxera louse, which on its world tour devastated vineyards in
Victoria in the late 19th century. Fortunately (considering that
this little !^&#@ almost entirely wiped out European vines), South
Australia and New South Wales were spared - being a big, arid and
relatively empty country has some advantages when it comes to
disease control – and consequently now have some of the oldest and
most ‘authentic’ (not grafted) vines on the planet.
Although occasionally punctuating the wine world stage with
astounding wines, Australian largely kept their wines to themselves,
suffering cycles of domestic boom and bust and a rather unflattering
Monty Python sketch |
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Throughout most of the 20th century, even ardently enthusiastic
promoters of Australian wine regarded it their premium products as
being unfairly but perpetually marginalised in the ‘Old World’ by an
inbuilt prejudice against them. This was even in the UK market,
naturally the one most accessible and receptive to Australian wines
– we’re really not very attached to our Welsh Claret.
Australian wine really started flooding into the world’s glasses
towards the end of the 20th Century, through a combination of expanding
world trade, some effective marketing and, quite frankly, producing
wines that were ‘understandable’ and immensely appealing to drink.
They glugged first and foremost into the UK, creating wines that
were easily identifiable by the grape type, and causing anguish
among producers who named their wines after bewilderingly small and
unidentifiable portions of France. Around about the same time, some
carefully-made local cuvees started mysteriously vanishing from
their local areas at astonishing rates, then very publicly popping
up in the USA at astonishing prices, as the influential wine writer
Robert Parker got a taste for the full-bodied Shiraz of the Barossa
and McLaren regions. Australian wine had arrived. |